Friday, October 30, 2009

Gorgeous day (last weekend)



It is seven o clock. My alarm goes off. I want to stay in bed but I won't. Today is Thursday and I have taken the morning off. Andy – who I met at Church before - is taking me on a trip to visit some different nice Omani sites. We meet up at somewhere at at the Sultan Al Qaboos High way and start our trip in his 4x4 Daihatsu Terios. Our journey plan is to go to Wadi Shab, a supposedly a beautiful place with palm trees and pools right in the middle of the valley (a Wadi) in the mountains. Also we want to go to the so called “sinkhole”, a big hole close to the sea that holds beautiful blue green water and fish that nibble your feet.
We drive out of the parking spot leaving my car behind and heading in the direction of Sur. We drive through the mountains near Muscat and there is little traffic. The mountains are beautiful, very rocky and and have deep red brownish colour. We talk about life, church, christians, apologetics and arrive at a town called Quriyat. A small town at the Arabian sea. We take some pictures of some nice old forts (it's Andy on the picture) and drive further along the coast.
My phone goes off. It is Mr. Khalid. I tell him that I am heading in the direction of Sur. Immediately he responds by saying that this is his hometown and that I will go to Sur to meet his family and have lunch there. Later I talk to his older brother Mr. Mussalem on the phone. We are expected at two in the afternoon.

Next stop is the sinkhole in the Dibab area. And yes, it is beautiful. More than that. A nice park surrounds the deep basin which is about 40x25 meters in diameter. A starecase with remarkably big steps leads down to the pond that has many blue and green colourations. Before descending I watch an old Omani slowly finding his way downwards, his walking stik in loosely in his right hand and at every step he takes his left hand gently pulling his Dishdash to give his legs a bit more space. It is said that people used to believe that Demons used to house this pool and call it Afreet something something. A name having to do with demons. Superstition you think?


I make my way down and find myself looking at this marvellous water. I take of my shoes and take a step in the warm water. Another step. As soon as the whirling sand settles small little fish gather around my feed and start nibbling, my toes and feet. The first minute it tickles terribly, then it becomes more of a natural foot massage. I reckon about 50 guppy-like fish are indulging on what ever substance, smell or taste it is that they make them become attracted to my feet. I sit down on a rock and enjoy this natural wonder of feet nibbling creatures. We leave this place with great satisfaction. I want to go back here sometimes.
We move on and drive further East and stop a couple of times, for instance at Fins. We take pictures enjoy the warm sun, spectacular beachview sites and when it starts getting too hot we get back in our mobile refrigerator. Oman with AC is a bliss. Before getting in the car I find a piece of coral and take it with me to put it in my appartment. I don't think I can take it back to Holland through customs though. Too bad.
We don't take the main road straight to the Wadi Shab near Tiwi by the way. No we take the old road that leads through the local villages. This is the real Oman. At one point we find ourselves in the middle of a group of Omani having a barbecue on both sides of the street. Strangely they look at us as we pass their local gettogether, they don't seem bothered by us though. We keep driving and all of a sudden the road is so steep we start wondering if the car won't tip over. It does not. Luckily. And as we start wondering how to continue now, we see the sign for the Wadi Shab right there.

Now we are standing at the foot of the mountain range and about 200 meters behind us we can
see the sea. In front of us is the opening, the end of a gorge. This is an amazing canyon with jade coloured pools and streams and typical palmtrees. Entering this gorgeous place we look at the beauty of all the rich and abundant colours. The walls of mountains that we see on both our right and left hand vary from a rusty brown-red to pale orange, sandy yellow beige and almost chocoate brown and as the sunlight casts its presence over parts of the mountains, the contrasts makes it look like this place has come alive. We are astonished and overwhelmed by the beauty of this natural miracle.



In the heat we try to walk as much as possilbe in the protection of the shadow of the date palms which have already given their fruits during the summertime. Here and there we see some old palm trunks and we are told later that a couple of years ago a terrible storm had caused a destructive flood that swept away halve of all the vegataion in the area. During our hike we meet some people from various countries that are also here for recreation. They point us in the right direction and tell us that after an hour hiking there is nice natural pool. Full
of anticipation we continue hiking. I wrap my t
owel over my head to give me some protection from
the hot scourging sun. Each of usonly brought one small bottle of water so soon we start getting a little thirsty. But since we also have to make our way down we safe some of our water. Anyway, having hiked for
at least an hour – we take pictures around every corner, at every new rocks and stone and flower that we see – we reach the point were we can go no further without swimming. Therefore the bag stays at this point and Andy and I surrender to the water of this natural tropical pool. What makes it so special is that the water is warm, and it is so bright and that there are caves that in which you can swim. So there I am, in the water, looking up and it all around me is mountain and lightbeams enter the cave through cracks in the ceiling. Magnificent.

But then it is time to go back. We are already late for our lunch appointment but there is no reception here so its not possible to call our hosts. With this great experience we decend quickly and go back to our car. Mavi Mushkallaah, is the respons when we do finally call Mr. Mussalem.That means “no problem”. We are still more than welcome in his house in Sur. With a hungry stomach and directions to where we meet we rush to Sur. In Sur Mr. Mussalem has a warm welcome for us. He receives us in the guest room. A beautiful colourful room with a couch al around the room. It can easily hold 30 people. At one of the walls hangs a nice depiction of a boat. It is a Boum, a traditional Omani boat, that is however not being built anymore. On the background we see a house which is the familiy house of the Al Ruzaiqi familiy. Lunch is served and we replenish our bodies with delicious, fish, chicken, rice, fruits, dates and I don't know what more. After the lunch we continue with drinking suleymanie tea and
Omani coffee. This is sweet moderetely strong coffee served in very tiny cups. In Omani tradition this is served at arrival of the guests. The hosts stands and the guests sit and being served the coffee. New coffee is given as long as the guests wishes to get a refill. If he is done he is supposed to gently sway the cup signaling the host no new coffee is wanted. Normally people drink about three to four cups but coffee addicts will cause the host to stand on his feet for a long time since it is not considered polite to serve full cups. Only a small sip is served per cup. Go figure if you're used to drinking a venti coffee at your local Starbucks. Then it is prayer time. No problem Andy and I think, we'll wait here. It happens often that I need to wait before a meeting or whatever cause people need to go to prayer. But on this occassion our host rolls out his mat in direction of Mekka and just does te prayer in front of us. Feeling slightly uncomfertable and awkward, staring at our cups of tea I think what to make of all this. The praying ritual involves standing, kneeling, bowing, and silent prayer. I am happy we are not invited to partake in this prayer. Although, if he would have asked, I would have probably said that I would pray to Jesus instead. Anyway, after prayer we are drive to the family house, a couple of blocks away. There we meet the second to oldest of al eight brothers, Mr. Abdullah. We spend about 15 minutes there. We talk about Islamic believes and Omani culture. Mr. Mussallem explains that if a unannounced guest arrives at his house he would have to take care of him for three days without asking what his business is, or waht the reason of his stay is. Then after three days, he can ask, what is your business, what's the deal? But not earlier than having taken care of him for three days. After visiting this house we go to the farm house. This is where the familiy usually stays the other halve of the year. The house and garden are under construction. Some thirty goats, fifty chickens and two bulls are there livestock. The bulls are being held to be slaughtered at Eid, one of the Islamic holidays at the end of November. I actully may spend Eid there. The sun has set already and we need to make our way back home. But of course we cannot leave empty handed and both Andy and I bring home a bucket full of the best dates that were grown on the farm here. Delicious.
On the way back we are both exhausted and amazed by this beautiful day. Oman is a gorgeous country. The people are very hospitable. And I am having all these great experiences. I mean, look at the picture. But also I know that my position here is based on social inequity, injustice. and favoratism They way I live has a price that is paid by so many people that are less fortunate. This topic I must explore more. But not now. Now is the time to sleep, I feel tire. Good night.








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